Pull the recorded deed and the permit history side by side before you write the offer, and look at the gap between what was done and what was permitted. That single comparison tells you more than any walkthrough. The thread has covered permits, so here is how to use them properly. Start with the deed at the county register of deeds. It shows when the flipper bought the house and, in most cases, roughly what they paid. Say they bought it 70 days ago for $180,000 and they are asking $340,000. Now you know the budget. Subtract carrying costs, closing costs on both ends, and their profit target, and ask yourself whether the rest of that number could possibly have bought a new kitchen, two baths, HVAC, flooring throughout, and paint. Usually it could not, and now you know where to look. Then pull the permits. What you want is not "were there permits," it is "does the permit list match the work I am looking at." A permit for a kitchen remodel but nothing electrical, next to a kitchen with six new recessed lights and a new circuit for the range, tells you the electrical was done without inspection. That is the pattern. The specific inspection add-ons I would insist on, beyond a standard general inspection: Sewer scope. Nashville has a lot of older clay and cast iron laterals, and the lateral is the homeowner's problem from the house to the main. A flipper does not dig up a yard for a pipe nobody can see. This is the single highest expected-value $200 you will spend. A separate electrical evaluation. You are specifically looking for a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok or a Zinsco panel. Both are known fire hazards, both are still in service in a lot of mid-century housing, and neither gets replaced in a cosmetic flip because it is not visible from the kitchen. Insurers ask about them too, so this one can affect your ability to get a policy. GFCI protection at kitchen, bathroom and exterior receptacles. This is cheap to do correctly and takes ten seconds to test. A flipper who skipped a $20 device also skipped other things, so treat it as a proxy for care rather than as a problem in itself. Roof and attic, from inside. Look at the underside of the decking for staining, and look at whether the insulation was replaced or just fluffed up over the old stuff. Then the visual tells that hold up well: - Fresh paint on foundation walls, basement walls, or crawlspace framing, exactly where water staining would otherwise be visible. - Brand new flooring butted against original trim with a caulk gap, meaning the floor went in over something rather than instead of it. - Doors that do not latch and windows that stick, in a house that was otherwise "fully renovated." That is movement, and paint does not fix movement. - Anything in the crawlspace or attic that is visibly new sitting next to something visibly untouched. Two asks that cost you nothing. Request the contractor list and any lien waivers, and request a full list of work performed in writing as part of the seller's disclosure. A legitimate flipper has this and hands it over. Someone who dodges the question has told you something. And one on timing: if they bought it recently and you are financing with FHA, ask your lender about the FHA 90-day resale restriction before you get attached. That can end a deal on the calendar alone. I am a real estate professional, not an inspector or an electrician. Hire the specialists. The $600 you spend on a sewer scope and an electrical evaluation is the cheapest part of this purchase. I am Zoltan Peresztegi, and I work in Los Angeles and the South Bay, so Nashville is not my market, but if you want an introduction to a strong Nashville buyer's agent, I am glad to make one. Zoltan


